1964 Shasta 1500

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 This Shasta is an early 1500 in the ham shape before they went to the toaster (square) design. It can be towed with most 6 cylinder cars and weighs 20%-30% less than an Airflyte yet has the same classic layout with a dinette in the front, kitchen on the side and a bed in the back.

Restoring vintage campers has been my hobby since retiring. This restoration took me about 500 hours start to finish. It's my hope that this blog will give you a clear, honest idea of what our camper is like before you even see it. Click on any photo to see a larger version. 
(The reflection on the ceiling is my camera flash.)

The inside 
I sanded and did several coats of amber and clear shellac.

The new cushions and curtains match the original Formica from 1964.

The kitchen is in excellent condition.

Original hand pump works and is connected to a line that leads under the sink. This line can be used with any gallon water container.

Stove in working order

The oven is in working order although it takes a lot of work to get going 

and the heat it puts out is stifling in the summer.

During the restoration every panel with even the slightest water damage was replaced with A-Grade birch. I had the new birch specially milled in South Carolina. It cost me more than I’m going to admit.

I think there are two ways to add air conditioning to this camper but the new 12 volt Fantastic Fan kept us comfortable most nights.

The rear bed has a real memory foam mattress we've used less than 10 nights. 48" wide by 7?" long. If you're taller than 6'1" this camper may be too small.

A new (shore power) stainless steel front refrigerator. I left the original gas line installed behind the fridge in case you decide on a gas/electric unit instead.

Nice size closet. 

I tested the original heater and it seemed to work fine. We use our little electric space heater ($20) which does a great job. Many people pull out the heater and put in air conditioning. The factory vent is perfect for a portable AC unit.

I redid the floor with a quality Armstrong tile. I put down three coast of polish for protection.

Notice the extra outlet in the photo above? That's one of three I added while rewiring the camper. Another is above the fridge next to a 12 volt charging station creating an easily accessible place to plug in phones and computers on and off the grid.

I recreated the magazine holder. I always liked them.

Original gas lamp.

 All new electric lights.

Original screen door and Bargman lock set. The door was completely rebuilt along with new birch. This is not the usual flimsy Shasta door.

I polished every piece of chrome inside and out before reassembling the camper.

The shot above is of the side window while sitting on the bed. I mention this to draw your attention to the cabinet on the left. I replaced that side panel of the refrigerator cabinet with solid 1/2" birch. Why so thick? To support a small flat screen TV swivel stand.

The outside

 Overall, I think the condition of the skin is very good for its age.

We used a special primer for non-ferrous metals and a quality oil enamel that's a gloss but not a high gloss. I'd say between satin and gloss. It’s not a $3000 automotive paint job but most people think it looks great.

We didn't use body filler anywhere on our Shasta. I believe many people who use filler on camper aluminum eventually have problems with it cracking.

The only two sections of the skin that I replaced were on either side of the rear window. Aside from these areas, we left some minor dings and dents showing.

New wings made by a craftsman in VA known for doing excellent work. They are the exact size and shape as the originals in 1964. Yet made better. They weren't cheap, but the best never is cheap.

Authentic metal Shasta emblem, not a sticker. Also, a new door holder above it.

The door, cargo hatch and vent hatch all have new lock cylinders with keys that work perfectly.

All exterior lights work.

New wedding cake taillights.

New teardrop running lights.

Working original Bargman plate holder.

New 12 volt porch light.

The switch for the porch light is located on the dinette bench to the left.

A small side note, all exterior lights had new wire run with a dedicated ground for each. The new junction box for these wires is located on the frame near the hitch which connects to the new seven prong hitch wiring.

The new trailer tires have only about 1000 miles on them.  (Car tires flex too much for trailers.) The hubcaps are new vintage reproductions from Vintage Trailer Supply.

 The step.

The frame has the usual surface rust but is solid. The floor is in excellent condition for its age.

The camper hitch uses a 2" ball. You may need a step down hitch if your tow vehicle is high. I think they cost around $40. As I said above, the wiring harness is all new. And as you can see, no home-made hitch extensions or funky alterations.

Important repairs and improvements

It's the things you can't see on a vintage camper that really matter most. I replaced all rotten wood from the front to the rear while adding extra framing exactly the way Shasta did it 52 years ago.

By the way, there is always rotten wood somewhere on a 50 year old camper. ALWAYS.

                                 

After insulating way beyond what was done in 1964 I added a Tyvek vapor barrier. This is the same vapor barrier used on new homes.



I rebuilt the door using more than twice the support and fully insulating before covering with a vapor barrier.

I reinstalled all the original trim along with new A-grade birch with 4 coats of shellac.

Places most vulnerable to leaks I used double putty tape.

New Optima sealed Battery, new 12 volt system and wiring, new charge maintainer, new fuse box.

I stripped every inch of old paint off. You're looking at the clean, original skin.

As you can see, no plastic body filler.

Quote from a top restoration expert:

"Filler is NOT a good product for trailers for two reasons. First, the aluminum skin expands as it gets hot. The body filler will not expand. The long term result will be cracks. Second, filler also does not like to be flexed, and the skin on a vintage trailer is not stiff like a car door. It will flex in the wind."

Counterpoint:
"Filler is fine for a camper that is on a permanent site or used for shorter journeys.  As long as you don't subject it to long road trips it should be fine."

Another point of view:
"Done by somebody who really knows what they are doing, in very thin layers, 
filler can last if the camper is stored under cover when not in use."

If possible, I stay clear of body filler but you need to make the call for yourself.

The window sills are the first place to rot. If somebody tells you a camper has been restored, ask for photos of the windowsills. They forgot to take them? Walk away.

Curtains and pillows are common ways to hide water damage. If somebody won't show you behind the "stuff", walk away.

A ridiculously close look at imperfections

First, let me say that there are restoration people who sell campers with all new custom made skin with a $3000 paint job. These people are artists and I respect what they create.

If you really want a perfect camper, buy from the company like the one below.

http://www.flytecamp.com/portfolio.html

Their restoration work is flawless. Worth every penny. Check out their Neutron retro camper. Vintage style and brand new. Amazing.

Now... back to real world imperfections.

The most noticeable dings...

Above the rear window you can see a small dent.

To the right above the front window where the roof curves is a small dent.

This photo is a little dark but you can see the ding and some blemishes in the 

chrome on the license plate holder. The same is true of the handle near the door.

(Bright flash)

Most of the putty looks as smooth as this window.

But the putty along parts of the jrail was lumpy because I did it on a hot day.

The only chip I know of on the glass

A chip repaired on the stove top

Tiny dents from a padlock at some point over the last half century.

The little dents and screw holes are the only part of the chrome I wasn't happy with. A metal shop can re-fabricate the chrome piece but I don't own a metal break to do it.

Towing info

At around 1500 pounds most V6 cars can tow The Shasta 1500.

Shasta 1500 specs can be found here:
http://oldtrailer.com/vintage-shasta-1500-trailer-specs.html

Good advice given me: whatever your car manual has as your towing weight limit cut in half. Especially if you want to tow in the mountains. 


                                                  Details

I've shown you everything I'd want to see as a buyer.

Our Shasta is not a flawless museum piece. It's not a $30,000 FlyteCamp restoration. It’s 53 years old and it’s being sold as-is with no guarantee of warranty.

I have a clear title.
It is an NC title in my name with the proper year of the camper.
Even if you don’t buy our camper, don’t accept anything less.

No trades considered.
Serious inquiries only.

Location: outside of Raleigh NC.

I’ll hold the camper for 24 hours without a deposit for anybody interested. After that point I will move to another interested party.

I will hold the camper for 14 days if a nonrefundable deposit of $500 is paid. By nonrefundable I mean I won't give the money back for any reason. So you really have to come see the camper.

Cash
Craigslist says there has been an epidemic of phony cashiers checks lately. So full payment must be in cash or in our account (cleared) before the camper will be released and the title signed over.

Sorry, no exceptions.

Email me your questions or your number if you want to talk. I'll answer all inquiries in the order they are received.
ktmapex@yahoo.com

Have a great day!